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The Bacari of Venice

One of the true delights of a trip to Venice is the cuisine… unless you have no idea what to look for and end up at one of the plethora of terrible tourist traps serving up uninspired portions of bland food no self-respecting Venetian would eat.  An excellent choice that will satiate your hunger and suit pretty much any budget is a Bacaro (plural – Bacari).

Bacaro Risorto in Venice

Bacaro Risorto – one of my favourite’s in all of Venice!

Bacaro is the Venetian word for “bar”.  The typical Venetian bacaro offers “ombra” (a small glass of wine), aperitivo (think Spritz Campari or its milder cousin Spritz Aperol), and a nice selection of fresh cicchetti (small snacks or side dishes – like tapas in Spain).  Some of my favourites also have a small selection of tasty craft beers as well, like Bacaro Risorto, pictured above.

A small glass of wine and a plate of cicchetti as pictured above will only set you back a few euros.

Locals and visitors-in-the-know will make a nice evening visiting a few bacari, sharing drinks and snacks with friends – old and new alike!  It’s easy to meet new people at a bacaro – people generally crowd around the bar or stands on the square or sidewalk chatting with each other while enjoying their finger foods and drinks.  However, if your feet are tired from a day of sightseeing, you can probably find a table to relax at.

Locals chatting with the bartender about football and local politics.

One of my commitments when I started Eat and Drink Like a European was to ensure that in addition to high-end fine dining, my guests would always get a chance to connect with the locals and eat the way they do every day.  I hope you can join me on a Bacari “crawl” on our next Very Best of Northern Italy Tour!

 

 

Balsamic Vinegar Tour and Tasting

Real balsamic vinegar is produced as a “hobby” by the fine wineries of the Modena / Parma agricultural valley. On our tour we visit one of the premium wine makers of the region, the Medici Ermete, and have an exclusive tour and tasting of their family’s small Acetia where they produce the tasties balsamic vinegar you have ever tried.

Beer Hunting in Bruges

You can count on Medieval Bruges for beautiful art and architecture, delicious food and chocolate, and AMAZING beer experiences! We always have time on the Ultimate Beer Tour for some beer hunting – and the hunting is easy if you know who to talk to (that would be me, Craig, your trusty tour guide!).

Pesto Making in the Cinque Terre

One of my favourite experiences in Liguria is taking part in a pesto making class. The art of pesto comes from this beautiful seaside region, and learning from a local is the best way to experience the food, rather than just eating the food! This is part of our Eat and Drink Like a Northern Italian tour.

Cooking in Italy

I love to bring back special mementos from my travels. Not the plastic mass-produced kind! One of the most interesting memories you can bring back from a trip abroad is a new skill. When visiting Italy, try a cooking class with a local chef. We recently cooked with a chef near Verona, Italy, at the best place possible – a winery! Between the cooking with Luisa and the wine tour (and ample tasting) with Sylvia, I think this was one of the most memorable events of our most recent journey. And we brought back some new skills we can try in the kitchen to share with our friends and family. Way better than a pen that says “Verona”.

Proper Tiramisu

There’s the “Tiramisu” you get at the Olive Garden… and then there’s actual Tiramisu in Italy. Properly served, with fresh espresso that you add just before eating! Enjoy this on our Eat and Drink Like a Northern Italian Tour!

Prague – An Essential Stop on the Ultimate Beer Tour!

Beautiful Prague is the city of a thousand spires, and hundreds of great beers!

 

Surfing in England?

St. Ives is a beautiful little corner of England (or Cornwall, to be exact).  A visit here is time well spent – with plenty of outdoor activities (golf, surfing, beach time) and fantastic food and drink!  We spend 2 nights here on our England tour – staying in a castle!

 

The War That Will End War

Shortly after the outbreak of the First World War in 1914, British author H.G. Wells wrote a series of essays that were published as “The War That Will End War.” The ferocity of the battles that ensued, and the pure destructive power of the new battlefield technologies cemented this idea in the public conscience – after WWI, the powers that be would no longer have any appetite for warfare. So much for that notion – it was a mere 20 years later that Germany invaded Poland, starting the Second World War.

The First World War has no surviving veterans – I was in Paris when the last French WWI vet Lazare Ponticelli died in March 2008. Flags were at half mast all over the city – of all the countries in Europe, France was more devastated than any other by the First World War – the scars run deep. I remember as a child in the 1970’s that there were several WWI veterans on my paper route in North Vancouver – several that I knew of anyway. They were the ones missing a leg, or both legs, or an arm. Some of them would visit our elementary school for our Remembrance Day assemblies, and we would see them at the cenotaph on November 11. I knew I was to respect them, and that I was to be thankful for their service. In my child’s mind, in my comfortable home, in my peaceful country, I couldn’t really fathom what their service entailed.

Canadia Troops World War 1

Canadian troops go “over the top” at Vimy Ridge

As a teacher and a tour guide, I have visited World War I sites throughout Europe, mostly in France and Belgium. Though I certainly have no claim to understanding the experiences of the soldiers in that war, these pilgrimages have helped me to better recognize and respect them. The battlefields, museums, and monuments at Verdun in Eastern France, Vimy Ridge in Northern France, and Ypres in Belgium are solemn places where we can reflect on the sacrifices of past generations. They do not glorify war, nor do they celebrate the victory of one side over another – instead they bring us into the experiences of ordinary people thrown into extraordinary circumstances – they put human faces on the statistics, and they implore us not to make the same mistakes again.

German Soldiers in Gas Masks

German soldiers and their mule all sporting gas masks as they prepare to go into battle at Verdun.

Of all these sites, the In Flanders Fields museum in Ypres personalizes the First World War in a profound way, bringing the events of 100 years ago to the present generation. When you enter the museum, you are given a small wristband which you use to sign in – it gives you the identity of a real person from the war era – soldier, nurse, farmer, etc. – and you take that identity with you through the interactive displays, finding out how that person’s life was affected by the war as it raged from 1914 to 1918. Through a combination of relics from the war and modern technology, the In Flanders Fields museum has succeeded in insuring this century old event will not be forgotten, at least not by those who visit. The most profound aspect of a visit here is the way that the personal stories are shared.

Ypres Cloth Hall

The medieval Ypres Cloth Hall – destroyed by relentless shelling in the First World War.

 

Flanders Fields Museum

The Ypres Cloth Hall today – containing the excellent In Flanders Fields Museum.

 

Lazare Ponticelli, through his long life, often obliged when people asked him to share his personal story. As a boy of 16, Ponticelli signed up to fight the enemy of his newly adopted country (he was originally from Italy). He recalled that during extended periods of artillery fire, the young men waiting in the trenches would say to each other, “If I die, you’ll remember me, won’t you?”, as though their chief concern wasn’t their own impending doom, but the idea that they would be obliterated from history – forgotten. He seemed to understand that the men in the other trenches felt the same way. He recalled tripping over an injured German soldier in the dark, who then fully expected to be killed, but in a move of desperation, held up two fingers to Ponticelli, which he took to understand he had two children. Ponticelli did not pull the trigger, but took him prisoner instead. As a centenarian, he showed no interest in labelling anyone his enemy. He said he did not understand why on earth he, or they, had been fighting. “You shoot at men who are fathers. War is completely stupid.” Was H.G. Wells displaying some grand naiveté when he wrote “The War That Will End War”? Perhaps. Or maybe his thoughts were a call to future generations – a hope that eventually, we will learn something profound from the experiences of men like Lazare Ponticelli.

Lazare Ponticelli

Lazare Ponticelli at age 106 – 90 years after he enlisted in the French Foreign Legion at the start of the First World War.

The Cotswolds – an essential part of any proper trip to England!

Why is the Cotswolds such a special place?  The beauty of the landscape, combined with the rustic stone villages that dot it, unveil a history of unique, industrious people, and their fascinating stories!   This was the wealthy wool-production capital of England in medieval times… resulting in villages with large, ornate churches, manor houses, and castles – much more grand than the size of the villages would suggest!  The Cotswolds with a pint (or two…) I can’t think of a better couple of days! A tour of the historic Hook Norton Brewery, with ample tastings… a designated driver to take you to the highlights in the rustic villages of the English countryside… and a gourmet dinner featuring fresh, local ingredients (the highly-rated baked trout is caught a few feet from our restaurant!).  Join us on the Ales, Ciders, and Historic Pubs Tour of England to experience the Cotswolds… in depth… and in style!