Archive for category: Uncategorized

Neuschwanstein Castle – The Very Best of the Alps

This bizarre castle, built on the side of a mountain in the middle of nowhere by a strange man-child caught up in medieval fantasies, always delights travelers fortunate enough to get out to this corner of the Alps.  And I’ve taken hundreds of them, if not thousands (I stopped counting a long time ago) here.  In 2020, when I had no groups to lead, my daughter Kasmira and I found ourselves in Europe researching our Very Best of the Alps trip.  And she suggested adding a stop at Neuschwanstein to the tour.  Why not?  It’s in the Alps, requires a bit of hiking to get to, and is close to the beautiful bavarian town of Fussen, where there’s great food and drink to be had.

Kasmira on Marienbrücke (Mary’s Bridge) ready to hike up into the mountains behind Neuschwanstein after our visit inside.

Not a “real” castle from the age of castles, but a pleasure palace created out of the fanciful imagination of King Ludwig II of Bavaria (and the taxes of the Bavarian people) on the cusp of the modern era, this is nonetheless probably the most recognized castle in the world.  Despite the fact that Ludwig only got to live in it for a short time after its completion on September 5, 1869 (my birthday, by the way! – well, different year) before being arrested by the Bavarian State Police and sent to a lakeside asylum (where he and his psychiatrist mysteriously drowned), the inside of this castle has a tale to tell.  To go inside you must book a timeslot and go with a guide.  They take you through the “finished rooms” (much of the castle is unfinished inside, and the Nazis stored stolen art in the unfinished rooms during WWII), including the Singer’s Hall (basically a private opera house for Ludwig and his guests), the Throne Room (throne never installed), and the drawing room filled with dozens of artistic representations of swans (part of the name of the castle in German – “new swan stone”).  Photos are not allowed inside, so I just pulled some from wikimedia commons, because I would never break the rules and take photos where they’re not allowed.

The drawing room (what we would call a “living room” in a normal house). The swan motif is everywhere, but it’s hard to find them in this picture. You’ll see them all when you visit the room in person.

The Singer’s Hall – they actually put on small concerts here from time to time today. I haven’t got an invite to one yet…

The amazing multi-ton chandelier hanging from the ceiling of the throne room. It is meant to evoke the crowns worn by Holy Roman Emperors in days gone by.

One last look at Neuschwanstein before we descend to the valley below.

After visiting the Neuschwanstein Castle for the 25th(?) time (again, who’s counting) and hiking up the mountain behind, we descended to the base where Ludwig’s old castle, Hohenschwangau sits.  In all my years visiting here, I had never been inside the little yellow castle – and now without a group or any time constraints I got to go in!  It’s beautiful inside!  But again, no photos allowed. This is where little Ludwig grew up.

Most of the time when I visit this area it is March and the gardens aren’t in bloom. Different story in the summer – gorgeous gardens – some wild, some manicured, surround Hohenschwangau.

After the castle visits, we headed into Fussen to our nice hotel and walked down the pedestrian streets to find a restaurant (Kasmira found a restaurant with a micro-brewery in it for me!).

Beim Olivenbauer was filled with locals – I think we were the only people not speaking German. Then again, it was August 2020, so not a lot of people travelling… Great food, and excellent home-brewed beer! I really only care about the beer.

The end of another beautiful day in the Alps….

…and the start of another beautiful day in the alps with breakfast on the patio of our lovely hotel! The adventure continues…

The Bacari of Venice

One of the true delights of a trip to Venice is the cuisine… unless you have no idea what to look for and end up at one of the plethora of terrible tourist traps serving up uninspired portions of bland food no self-respecting Venetian would eat.  An excellent choice that will satiate your hunger and suit pretty much any budget is a Bacaro (plural – Bacari).

Bacaro Risorto in Venice

Bacaro Risorto – one of my favourite’s in all of Venice!

Bacaro is the Venetian word for “bar”.  The typical Venetian bacaro offers “ombra” (a small glass of wine), aperitivo (think Spritz Campari or its milder cousin Spritz Aperol), and a nice selection of fresh cicchetti (small snacks or side dishes – like tapas in Spain).  Some of my favourites also have a small selection of tasty craft beers as well, like Bacaro Risorto, pictured above.

A small glass of wine and a plate of cicchetti as pictured above will only set you back a few euros.

Locals and visitors-in-the-know will make a nice evening visiting a few bacari, sharing drinks and snacks with friends – old and new alike!  It’s easy to meet new people at a bacaro – people generally crowd around the bar or stands on the square or sidewalk chatting with each other while enjoying their finger foods and drinks.  However, if your feet are tired from a day of sightseeing, you can probably find a table to relax at.

Locals chatting with the bartender about football and local politics.

One of my commitments when I started Eat and Drink Like a European was to ensure that in addition to high-end fine dining, my guests would always get a chance to connect with the locals and eat the way they do every day.  I hope you can join me on a Bacari “crawl” on our next Very Best of Northern Italy Tour!

 

 

What Child Is This?

The famous Christmas carol, penned in 1865 by English writer William Chatterton Dix on his “death bed” (he later recovered), asks the question “What child is this, who laid to rest, on Mary’s lap is sleeping?” and answers “This is Christ, the King”.  Interspersed in his thoughtful lyrics, set to the tune of the medieval English song Greensleeves, are references to shepherds, angels, ox and ass, incense, gold, and myrrh – familiar figures and objects in a traditional nativity scene (also called a crèche).

Two German children admire a small nativity just as their ancestors have done for generations.

Nativities are very popular during the Christmas season – millions of people have small versions in their own homes (we have six!), and many larger scenes are set up in church parking lots, town squares, library courtyards, and front lawns.  One of our local churches has a crèche display in their community hall with over 100 different nativity scenes from all over the world.

There amongst the red-nosed reindeer and Santa Claus is an illuminated nativity in the yard of our neighbour, known affectionately as Mr. Christmas.

Where did this tradition begin?  Many expect the answer to be Germany because so many of our modern Christmas traditions come from the Germanic world, but in fact the nativity originates in medieval Italy.

Built straight out of the stone, the Greccio Franciscan hermitage is an extraordinary fusion of architecture and nature.  It was here that St. Francis first recreated the Christ birth scene on Christmas Eve, 1223.

In 1223, St. Francis of Assisi was visiting the small village of Greccio.  As Christmas approached, he was struck with the idea of creating a scene to represent the birth of Christ for the people of the village.  This was a novel idea, and as such he requested and was granted permission from the pope to create the first nativity scene, to be displayed during Midnight Mass.  It was a live scene – real baby, real donkey, real hay.  According to his biographer, “St. Francis stood before the manger, full of devotion and piety, bathed in tears and radiant with joy.”  The scene so moved the great monk that he could not bring himself to even utter the name of the Lord, instead referring to him repeatedly as the Babe of Bethlehem in his sermon that night – indeed, the whole village was moved to tears. News of the spiritual outpouring reached the Vatican, and the tradition of the nativity scene was spread throughout Europe.  

Famous pre-Renaissance Italian artist Giotto painted a history of the life of St. Francis in the monastery of Assisi.   This piece is called Institution of the Crib at Greccio – a scene depicting St. Francis creating the first nativity.

This tradition has continued to today, where you will find beautiful nativity scenes in cities, towns, and villages throughout Europe during the Christmas season. Europe is the home to so many of our traditions, both Christmas and otherwise. Below are some great nativity scenes from around Europe.  Enjoy!  To join us at the Basilica of St. Francis sign up for our Sacred Heart of Italy Tour.

Every year the Vatican sets up an elaborate nativity scene in St. Peter’s Square.

A detailed crèche on display in Budapest, Hungary.

This 1476 fresco by Sandro Botticelli is in Santa Maria Novella in Florence, Italy.

The nativity in stained glass in the Saint Eustache church of Paris, France.

Creative use of straw in Prague.

A live nativity in a Dolomites mountain village in Italy.

Balsamic Vinegar Tour and Tasting

Real balsamic vinegar is produced as a “hobby” by the fine wineries of the Modena / Parma agricultural valley. On our tour we visit one of the premium wine makers of the region, the Medici Ermete, and have an exclusive tour and tasting of their family’s small Acetia where they produce the tasties balsamic vinegar you have ever tried.

Beer Hunting in Bruges

You can count on Medieval Bruges for beautiful art and architecture, delicious food and chocolate, and AMAZING beer experiences! We always have time on the Ultimate Beer Tour for some beer hunting – and the hunting is easy if you know who to talk to (that would be me, Craig, your trusty tour guide!).

Pesto Making in the Cinque Terre

One of my favourite experiences in Liguria is taking part in a pesto making class. The art of pesto comes from this beautiful seaside region, and learning from a local is the best way to experience the food, rather than just eating the food! This is part of our Eat and Drink Like a Northern Italian tour.

Cooking in Italy

I love to bring back special mementos from my travels. Not the plastic mass-produced kind! One of the most interesting memories you can bring back from a trip abroad is a new skill. When visiting Italy, try a cooking class with a local chef. We recently cooked with a chef near Verona, Italy, at the best place possible – a winery! Between the cooking with Luisa and the wine tour (and ample tasting) with Sylvia, I think this was one of the most memorable events of our most recent journey. And we brought back some new skills we can try in the kitchen to share with our friends and family. Way better than a pen that says “Verona”.

Proper Tiramisu

There’s the “Tiramisu” you get at the Olive Garden… and then there’s actual Tiramisu in Italy. Properly served, with fresh espresso that you add just before eating! Enjoy this on our Eat and Drink Like a Northern Italian Tour!

Prague – An Essential Stop on the Ultimate Beer Tour!

Beautiful Prague is the city of a thousand spires, and hundreds of great beers!

 

Surfing in England?

St. Ives is a beautiful little corner of England (or Cornwall, to be exact).  A visit here is time well spent – with plenty of outdoor activities (golf, surfing, beach time) and fantastic food and drink!  We spend 2 nights here on our England tour – staying in a castle!