Europe – Page 2 – Eat and Drink Like A European

Biking in the Low Countries

July 14, 2015/in Amsterdam, Belgium, bicycle, bike, Bruges, cycling, Europe, Europe Tour, European, Explore, Low Countries/by Craig Bresett

They don’t call Belgium and the Netherlands the “low” countries for nothing. The “nether” in “Netherlands” actually means “lower”. With most of the land at or below sea level, and nary a hill in sight, you shouldn’t be surprised that in some regions of the Netherlands and Belgium, there are more bicycles than people per capita (some people own 2 bikes – a city “beater” and a fancy road bike for the weekends)! In Amsterdam alone, 60% of all trips are made by bicycle. Everyone uses this mode of transport – bankers, students, delivery people, priests, politicians, police – it’s really a way of life. On one of my tours in Bruges, Belgium, the group had some free time and I asked my Dutch bus driver if he wanted to rent a bike with me and ride out into the countryside. He took it as a bit of a challenge, asking “You can think you can keep up with an old Dutchman on a bicycle?” I did OK.

I’ve always advocated doing as the locals do when traveling – it’s part of the OneLife Tours philosophy. So the next time you’re in the Low Countries, rent yourself a bike and see how easy it is to navigate around town or take a little side trip out into the country.

Here is some practical advice for renting bikes in my favourite cities in this region: Amsterdam, Brussels, and Bruges. Note that pretty much any town will have bicycle rentals available – just ask your hotel or B&B for advice (sometimes hotels even have free loaner bikes for their guests – very convenient!)

Amsterdam

Rental shops abound in Amsterdam, but here are two that are very central with helpful staff and reasonable rates:

Frederic Rent-a-Bike: Very close to Central Station, with a good selection of well-maintained, comfortable rental bikes. Hours: daily 9:00 to 17:30 / Brouwerscgracht 78 / tel. 020-624-5509

MacBike: Huge rental stock, located right at Central Station (with a couple of smaller shops further out from the centre). You can get information here about different options for self-guided bike tours in town or in the countryside for €1. Hours: daily 9:00 to 17:45 /AH Stationsplein 5 / tel. 020-624-8391

RentaBike: Great selection, with tandems, kids’ bikes, mountain bikes, or the popular “granny” bikes! Hours: daily 9:00 to 18:00 /Damstraat 20-22 / tel. 020-624-5029

Brussels

Brussels has a few more “hills” than Amsterdam or Bruges, so you are liable to see a wider selection of gears on your typical rental bikes here. It is also the least bike-friendly of the three cities listed here – though there are lots of bikes, and riding is generally safe, just beware that you are more likely to be riding beside city traffic without your own dedicated bike lane in Brussels. If you’re OK with that, a bike is a great way to get around the city.

ProVelo: ProVelo was established in 1992 to promote all things bicycle in the European capital. They have a good selection of different bikes for riders of all ages and abilities, and just love supporting the use of bicycles by locals and tourists alike. Hours: Mon. > Fri. : 10:00 > 13:30 | 14:00 > 18:00; Sat. > Sun. + statutory holidays : 10:00 > 18:00 / Londonstraat 15 / tel. 02 502 73 55

Villo: Not a traditional bicycle rental shop – Villo is a citywide bike hire system with stands all over the city approximately 500 metres apart. These bikes are heavy steel frame bikes meant to stand up to heavy usage. To use this system as a visitor, you must purchase a 1 day guest pass with your credit card, then use it to sign out bicycles at any of the stands. Ask a local for help if you are having trouble with the machine – but instructions are in English, so give it a try! Just look for the yellow “Villo” fenders as you walk the streets, or use this online map to find one close to you.

Bruges

Ahhh… Bruges. My favourite destination in the Low Countries – a medieval timewarp, with absolutely flat streets emanating out from the central market square to some beautiful countryside. Rent a bike and just use it to get around town, or take it out past the windmills on the edge of town and ride to the little villages of Dam or Lissewege. Insider info: Hotel Adornes has free bikes for guests staying with them! Take your bike with you in the morning – stay out as long as you like!

Koffieboontje Bike Rental: Literally right beside the bell tower on Market Square, this bike rental is located right in the lobby of the Hotel Koffieboontje. Just go up to reception and tell them you are interested in renting a bike (you’ll see the bikes right outside) and they’ll issue you a ticket that you bring to the bikeman who will emerge from some steep stairs outside the lobby. He’ll let you test out your bike until you find one you like, and then you’re off! Hours: daily, 10 AM to 10 PM / Hallestraat 4 / tel. 32 50 33 80 27

Bicycles Popelier: Oxford brand bicycles that are replaced every 6 months – they really take pride in their rental stock at Popelier. They have even started renting out electric bikes if you want some power-assist! Hours: vary – but opens daily at 10 AM. / Mariastraat 26 / tel. 32-50-343262

OneLife Tours is dedicated to the absolute best in European travel experiences for our small groups. If you want your travel in Europe to be authentic and focussed on being a “temporary local” then we’re your company!

[author] [author_image timthumb=’on’]https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/506116251454697472/4blfsXiS.jpeg[/author_image] [author_info]This blog happily shared with you by Craig Bresett (just back from a bike ride) – owner and chief tour director at OneLife Tours. Contact Craig anytime: craig@onelifetours.ca[/author_info] [/author]

Shop for clothes like Parisians do

July 11, 2015/in bargain, Europe, European, France, Paris, Shopping, Tour, tour guide, travel/by Craig Bresett

Nobody is going to accuse me of being a fashionista (I’m not even sure that term can be applied to a male?). But I know from having taken thousands of travellers through La Ville Lumière (the city of light) that a “break” from the landmarks and museums most often includes a bit of must-do Paris shopping. Paris is one of the world capitals of fashion and style, and has some very high-end clothing stores where you probably couldn’t even afford a pair of socks. So where do smart Parisians (and travelers-in-the-know) shop? Thrift stores of course!

With so much focus on fashion in Paris, you can rest assured that there are plenty of perfectly good, slightly used, “last year’s” clothes make their way into the many second hand boutiques in Paris and its suburbs. If you can be caught dead (or alive) in something that’s a little (or a lot) vintage, you’re going to find lots of bargains in this otherwise expensive shopping city.

Here are a few Parisian favourites:

LITTLE BOX: This tiny store in the Marais is stuffed with vintage designer clothes, shoes and bags. Not the cheapest prices, but not a lot of junk to sort through either – the stock is well considered before being put out (probably because the shop is so small!) Designer sunglasses can also be found here at less than half of original price typically. The owners are really friendly and helpful too. Just make sure you say “bonjour” when you enter!

77 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris

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Little Box: 77 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris

PRETTY BOX VINTAGE: With a focus on real vintage, this store contains some really cool old fashions from the 1920s to the 1990s. Prices vary, but for the really unique stuff, don’t expect bargain basement! This is the place to go if you want to find something you won’t find anywhere else.

46 Rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris

Pretty Box Vintage: 46 Rue de Saintonge 75003 Paris

FREE ‘P’ STAR: This is probably the best of the extreme bargain thrift shops in town. You can buy jackets, pants, dresses, etc. for under €20, or dig through the bargain bins where everything is only €1! Just €1! If you don’t mind jostling a bit in this overstuffed (with clothes and people) shop, you can come away with some real steals!

61 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris (Hotel de Ville store – this small chain has 2 other Paris locations in addition to this one)

Free ‘P’ Star: 61 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris

THE KILO SHOP: This shop probably has the most interesting concept – selling clothes by weight! Basically all the items are tagged either red (€20 per kilo) or yellow/green (€30 per kilo) or orange (€60 per kilo). The stuff is well organized, with lots of men’s clothing (this place is probably the best for guys of the four mentioned in this blog). It’s extremely well organized, with lots of scales for you to check your clothing weight before going to purchase it. Here’s to innovative ideas!

69-71 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris (Le Marais store)

The Kilo Shop: 69-71 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris

Do you have a favourite thrift store in Paris that I missed? Let me know in the comments!

OneLife Tours is dedicated to the absolute best in European travel experiences for our small groups. If you want your travel in Europe to include plenty of free time built into an outstanding itinerary, we’re your company!

[author] [author_image timthumb=’on’]https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/506116251454697472/4blfsXiS.jpeg[/author_image] [author_info]This blog happily shared with you by Craig Bresett (wearing a knit cap purchased from the Kilo Shop) – owner and chief tour director at OneLife Tours. Contact Craig anytime: craig@onelifetours.ca[/author_info] [/author]

5 Things to Expect in Paris

May 28, 2015/in discover, Europe, metro, Paris, travel, Travel Tips/by Craig Bresett

Paris is one the world’s great cities, but it can also be overwhelming for a first-time visitor. Here are five good tips on what to expect from travel blogger Christine Gilbert:

How does one write about Paris? Do they talk about the beauty of the city or the vibrant people or the delicious food or falling in love? If they are a travel writer, then most likely yes. It’s impossible to capture the essence of a place in a few sweeping observations, so we invoke images we are familiar with, even if we’ve never been.

This is the exact problem I had when arriving. I had black and white photos of Paris in my mind, romanticized close-ups from some French film in college, where a couple in trench coats embrace in front of Notre Dame and others smoke skinny cigarettes in some café. What film and photos failed to capture is the experience.

I took over 1,000 pictures in four days, and I couldn’t find it. That single picture that would somehow convey the gestalt of Paris: the feeling of walking around for an hour and not making it out the gardens of the Louvre, the way every building for miles around adheres to a certain aesthetic, the awe of standing beneath the massive Notre Dame Cathedral and understanding why it would take 200 years to complete.

So what to expect? Well get the whole quaint little city image out of your head and get ready for a bursting metropolis.

1. The entire city is the attraction. Yes there is the Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower, but really Paris itself is a beautiful city. They have very strict zoning laws for buildings, which becomes immediately apparent as city block after city block conforms to the same color palettes and facade styles. There are no brand new sky scrapers crammed in between historic buildings. The entire city feels like it was plucked from the 1800′s and preserved perfectly.

2. You will need to take the Metro (subway). As much as Paris is a city for walking, you simply can’t get everywhere by foot. The Metro is exhaustively well connected, which can make reading the metro maps a little daunting, but once you orient yourself it’s relatively easy to zip around the city. Want to look Parisian? Read a book as you ride.

3. There will be tourists everywhere you go. The German guy next to you had the same idea, “I’ll go to Paris!” You’re just as likely to hear someone speaking English, Russian, German, Spanish, or Arabic as you are to hear French. Even when I was 30 minutes north of the city, I still ran into tourists.

4. Soda will cost as much as your Sandwich. I’m not sure how the math on this works out, but for 3.50 Euros I can get a ham sandwich on an entire baguette. For 3.50 more I can get a mildly chilled Coke. If you’re traveling on a budget (like I was), then opt for a coffee (une cafe about 2 euros) instead.

5. However long you stay, isn’t long enough. I already have regrets about the things I didn’t see. I had enough time to hit a few large attractions, wander the city and get to know the place a little. If I had realized how small a dent I would be making in Paris, I might have planned my itnerary more carefully. Then again, some of my accidential finds where well worth it– like the statue of Moliere I ran into while slightly lost.

Do you have any travel tips for a first-time (or hundredth-time) visitor to Paris?

Bolzano, Italy: A Mountain Town with Culture, Class, & History.

April 9, 2014/in Alps, Bolzano, Dolomites, Europe, History, Italy, Ötzi, travel/by Craig Bresett

Bolzano is a fascinating stop on our Grand Tour. It’s located in the Italian Alps, but German speaking. Along with its outstanding natural beauty it houses one of Europe’s most interesting archeological finds: Ötzi, the mummified remains of a prehistoric man found in 1991 by hikers in the nearby mountains. In the following post Tim Pozzi of BBC Travel highlights some of Bolzano’s many charms.

Bolzano is the gateway to the Dolomites. It sits in a valley, and it’s quite something to gaze up from the main square, pretty Piazza Walther, at the forest-clad slopes and ridges of jagged limestone that surround it.

The centre is traffic-free, so as you meander away from Piazza Walther you hear sparrows cheeping, coffee machines whirring, old women gossiping, cups and saucers clinking.

The colourful medieval, Gothic and Belle Époque buildings, with their stepped gables, turrets and attractively faded frescoes, have a north European feel. Yet the porticoed main commercial street, Via Portici, feels Mediterranean. At Piazza delle Erbe, described with pleasure by Goethe in his Italian Journey, the two flavours meet. Some of the cosiest bars and cafés are hidden behind the stalls of fruit and flowers, spices and cheeses. And speaking of fruit – did you know that South Tyrol produces 12 per cent of Europe’s apples?

Bolzano’s churches; its Franciscan cloisters with 15th-century frescoes of monks from Scotland and Newcastle; its Mercantile Museum; and Museion, a spectacular, glass-clad collection of modern art on the banks of the River Talvera, are all rewarding places to visit. But Bolzano’s biggest attraction is Ötzi, a mummy discovered by chance in 1991 after spending the previous 5,300 years frozen in mountain ice. Most intriguingly, he was murdered.

You can see Ötzi in his fridge, kept at 21F (-6C), at the Museum of Archaeology, alongside a thrillingly vast quantity of artefacts found with him, from bear-fur hat to bow and arrows, and fascinating footage of the police, not realising how old he was, extracting his body.

This being the 20th anniversary of his discovery [in 2011], there is also a stunning new reconstruction of how tattooed, muscly Ötzi would have looked on the last day of his life.

The chance to come face to face with a man who lived some 500 years before the building of the Pyramids makes the journey to Bolzano worthwhile on its own.

Being in History

October 10, 2013/in Budapest, bus tour, Cathedral, context, Escorted, Europe, gothic, guide, History, Notre Dame, Tour, travel/by Craig Bresett

Visiting Europe is a kind of historical re-awakening – a way of linking to our collective past. Walking down a centuries old cobblestone road, walking between centuries old buildings, I get the feeling that in some way, the past is alive in these places. With the correct historical context, or a guide who can provide it, you will get this feeling too.

When I take a OneLife Tours group into the 850 year old Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, I like to tell some of the great stories from the church’s history. But I also want my travelers to get in “touch” with history. Inside, at the back of this gothic enormity, I take them to one of the huge stone pillars. And I invite them to touch it. And to imagine the hands that quarried these stones, that carefully chipped them into this shape, and placed them at the base of the column. To realize that those people lived, worked and died here, in history, and that those who placed the stones we can actually touch would not have lived to see their work completed (in fact even their great-grandchildren would not have seen this – the cathedral took 200 years to build!) This is history. This is being in history.

Do this when you travel. Be in history. www.onelifetours.ca

Hungarian photographer Ablak Múltra forces people to “be in history” by overlaying old photographs over new images captured in the same place. The results can be stunning!

5 Great Water Experiences in Europe

September 30, 2013/in boat, cesky krumlov, cinque terre, Europe, gondola, Grand Tour, Italy, mediterranean, onelife tours, Paris, raft, Seine, skocjan cave, slovenia, swim, travel, venice, vltava/by Craig Bresett

Humans are drawn to water. There is a universal appeal to the beauty of a waterfall, a small stream, a crystal clear lagoon. Just look at house prices – the closer you are to a coastline or a lake, the more expensive the property. When I share pictures from travels in Europe, I can prove statistically that the ones that have water in them, whether they be the Ligurian coastline of Italy’s Cinque Terre, the Grand Canal of Venice, the Seine River in Paris, or the waterfalls of Plitvice in Croatia, are by far the most popular (they get the most “likes” and “shares” on facebook). But it is not just aesthetics – our attraction to water goes much deeper than the “surface”.

Water sustains life, and makes up more than 50% of our own bodies by weight. It is a powerful force that can bring positive energy (medieval watermills / modern hydro-electric dams) but also unstoppable devastation (tsunamis, floods). And of course there is the mystery – another world exists in the water – one that humans can visit briefly, but never join.

Despite the danger and the unknown, we love to be near the water, on the water, over the water, and in the water. Travelers routinely seek out any available water-themed experiences. Here are a few you should try in Europe:

#5 – Paris, France:

A cruise down the Seine River

I prefer to do this in the evening, when Notre Dame, the Conciergerie, the Eiffel Tower and other riverside structures are beautifully lit up. It’s a good way to relax for an hour or so after a day of sightseeing in Paris. If you are staying in the Latin Quarter area, take the Vedettes du Pont Neuf near Saint Chapelle. If you are staying closer to the Eiffel Tower/Rue Cler area, take the Bateaux Parisiens. You can also splurge and take one of the dinner cruises – reservations and proper attire required. Join us in Paris for three nights on our Grand Tour!

#4 – Cinque Terre, Italy:

A swim in the Mediterranean – any time of year?

I take tour groups to Europe in the summer, when you will see lots of people, locals and tourists, populating the beautiful beaches on the coast of Italy. I also take groups in March, when, on what a Canadian would call a nice warm day, the locals, in their full length winter coats and scarves, will watch in disbelief as a bunch of North American tourists hit the somewhat chilly waves. Hey – you’re there – you might as well have the experience! Both our Italian Experience and Grand Tour feature a two night stay in the Cinque Terre region.

#3 – Škocjan Caves, Slovenia:

Daring to walk high above the Reka River

Disappearing underground in the Karst region of Slovenia, the mighty Reka River becomes visible only to those who venture into the Škocjan Caves. In one of the largest underground canyons in the world (think Grand Canyon, but with a stone ceiling above you) tourists of old used to hug the walls and walk high above the river with only their torches for light. Now with modern railings and lighting, the journey is a lot less dangerous, but still a thrill! Note that you can only enter Škocjan with a guide – click the link for more information. Part of our Best of the East tour.

#2 – Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic:

Rafting down the Vlatava River

Want to enter this beautiful baroque town in style? Rent a raft up river, and float into town! Locals and visitors alike love to cruise down the usually calm river in an assortment of rafts, canoes and kayaks, stopping at one of the many riverside pubs for lunch and a refreshing Czech pils beer. The natural scenery is wonderful, but once you enter the town, which sits conveniently on an “s” curve in the river, it is glorious! There are several raft rental agencies – I recommend the friendly people at Maleček Rafting & Canoe. Our Best of the East and Ultimate Beer Tour both feature a rafting trip into Cesky Krumlov!

#1 – Venice, Italy:

A gondola ride through the canals of Venice

Once a major form of transportation for locals, now a remnant of a bygone era, gliding down these lovely waterways can be a great joy. Expensive – yes. Romantic – depends who you’re with. Best time to go – the evening. Best place to hire a gondolier – debatable, but I wouldn’t hire one at the Rialto Bridge or St. Mark’s Square – the “back” canals are much preferable to the Grand Canal, which you can travel on in a local vaporetto (water-bus) for a lot less money. Campo San Moise is a nice place to hire a gondola. Join us in Venice on the Grand Tour or the Italian Experience Tour.

OneLife Tours is dedicated to the absolute best in European travel experiences for our small groups. If you’re looking for travel with an adventurous spirit, we’re your company!

[author] [author_image timthumb=’on’]https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/506116251454697472/4blfsXiS.jpeg[/author_image] [author_info]This blog happily shared with you by Craig Bresett (just back from a swim) – owner and chief tour director at OneLife Tours. Contact Craig anytime: craig@onelifetours.ca[/author_info] [/author]

"You don't even have a tan"

January 19, 2013/in Belgium, Escorted, Europe, Europe Tour, European, France, Germany, Grand Tour, Guided, Italian, Italy, Rick Steves, Tour, tour guide, tourism, travel, Vacation/by Craig Bresett

Upon return from one of my trips to Europe in 2012, a neighbour asked me, “So what do you do when you’re over there? I mean, you don’t even have a tan.”

I actually did have some colour from hiking under the warm Italian sun in the Dolomites and along the Mediterranean coast. And I even went swimming and spent some time on the beach while visiting the Cinque Terre. But my goals in traveling to Europe are not related to acquiring a tan, and I had not put any conscious effort into deepening my pigmentation.

My neighbour has not been to Europe. She has been to Mexico. Multiple times. I believe to the same resort. And Hawaii. And she, of course, comes back with a deep tan, as well as a sense of satisfaction and a relaxed demeanor.

I think when I come back from a trip, I definitely share that sense of satisfaction in time well spent, but I think my demeanor is usually one of excited anticipation – of sharing stories and photos (and beer and chocolate for the lucky ones) with friends and colleagues, and of, well, planning my next trip!

So when she asked me the question about what I do when I’m in Europe, she got a long and enthusiastic answer from this admittedly jet-lagged Europhile. I talked about meeting new people, trying new Belgian brews, searching for a winery in the hills of Tuscany, walking lopsided out of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, cycling along canals past windmills, quiet moments of reflection in 800 year old cathedrals, being overwhelmed by the magnificent beauty of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, eating the freshest most flavourful pesto anyone has ever had anywhere at any time in a little restaurant in a little village on the west coast of Italy… and on and on and on.

Her response: “Wow, you must come back from vacation more worn out than when you left!”

True, my “vacations” are not really relaxing. And most of the time when I’m overseas, I’m actually working (to provide a stress-free vacation for the people who are traveling with me) not vacationing. But I’m not tired out when I come back. I’m energized and invigorated. And I can’t wait to go again.

Have it all on your next vacation – Europe’s got history, art, architecture, food and drink, great people, and even a few beaches where you can work on your tan if that’s what you like! This is Vernazza in the Cinque Terre region of Italy – part of the Grand Tour.

5 Traditional European Christmas Dishes You've Never Tried

December 25, 2012/in Belgium, Christmas, cougnou, cuisine, Czech, Dishes, Europe, Europe Tour, food, France, Guided, Italy, lutefisk, pandoro, Tour, tour guide, tourism, travel/by Craig Bresett

1. Vánoční Rybí Polévka (Czech Christmas Fish Soup) – Czech Republic
Harking back to a simpler time when meat was a luxury to most Europeans, the tradition of eating carp (a freshwater fish) for a treat at Christmas has remained strong in the Czech republic. None of the fish was wasted – most recipes for this soup call for the head and viscera to be boiled to make the stock. Even today the mayor of Prague doles out this soup to the needy on the Old Town Square on Christmas Eve.


First the stock is prepared for vánoční rybí polévka

2. Les Treize Desserts (The Thirteen Desserts) – France
Here’s one for the kids (and those of us adults with a sweet tooth). In the Provence region of France, Christmas Eve is epic meal time, or Le Gros Souper. The table is set with three candles (representing the trinity) and a large dinner of fish, vegetables, bread and cheese is shared. The thirteen desserts (representing the number of diners at the Last Supper) are then laid out to finish the feast. The desserts consist of various fresh and dried fruits, nuts, nougats, cakes, and sweet wine. After all that, everyone heads to the local church to try to stay awake through Midnight Mass!

Les Treize Desserts

3. Pandoro (The Golden Bread) – Italy
This Italian sweet bread, traditionally from Verona, is a favourite at Christmas. By its appearance you would think it is a cake, but it is in fact a leavened yeast bread, sweetened with sugar or honey, and dusted with icing sugar (some say to resemble the Dolomite peaks just north of Verona). Pandoro is typically served with a side of whipped cream, or even better, vanilla gelato, and a strong Italian espresso. Yum.

Pandoro gets its golden colour from the egg yolks used in the simple recipe

4. Lutefisk (Lye Fish) – Norway
It is hard for a non-Scandinavian to understand the appeal of this dish… however it remains very popular at Christmas throughout the Nordic countries, especially Norway. Dried cod is soaked in a solution of water and lye for a number of days, which changes the texture of the fish, making it more like a fish “jello” (jellyfish?). At this point, the fish is inedible because of the lye, so it has to be rinsed in clean water for several days to remove most of the lye. Then it is ready to be baked or parboiled, and served in all of its odoriferous, gelatinous glory.

Lutefisk: Just tell the kids it’s jello

5. Cougnou (Baby Jesus Bread) – Belgium
This sweetened yeast bread, dotted with coarse granules of sugar, is made in the shape of “the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes” (Luke 2:12). A children’s favourite at Christmas, it is usually served with another Belgian specialty – real hot chocolate.


This looks so good, I’m going to try to make it myself.

Europe – home to so many different culinary traditions. Isn’t it time you made the trek? Join one of our specialized tours of Europe and enjoy regional cuisine at its finest. Go to OneLife Tours for details.

Christmas in Europe: German Christkindlmarkt

November 28, 2012/in Bavaria, Christkindlmarkt, Christmas, Europe, Germany, Kathe Wohlfahrt, Market, Museum, Rick Steves, Rothenburg, Tour, travel/by Craig Bresett

Nobody does Christmas like the Germans, and for good reason. All over German speaking Europe, but especially in Bavaria, the tradition of the Christkindlmarkt (Christmas market) goes back 700 years. In town squares throughout Germany right now, local craftsmen and merchants are setting up Christmas markets as they have done since the Middle Ages.

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You can warm up with some Glühwein (mulled wine) like your medieval ancestors did at Munich’s annual Christmas Market.

Unlike our modern “Black Friday” Walmart riots, the traditional Christmas market is a peaceful shopping experience where you can buy unique hand made crafts, sip mulled wine, and enjoy good music. And there is an unapologetic focus on the spirit of the season, and on the Christ child – Christkindlmarkt literally means “Christ child” market. It was actually the German protestant reformer Martin Luther who decreed that gifts should be given on Christmas Day in celebration of the birth of the Christ child rather than on St. Nicholas’ Day (Dec. 6) as had been the tradition.


Friendly Liselotte Groemer has been selling handpainted christmas ornaments at the Nuremburg Christmas Market since the 1950’s.

The Christmas pickle ornament – a unique German tradition.

With a central nativity display (an imported tradition from medieval Italy – details in a future blog) and a beautifully decorated Tannenbaum (Christmas tree – a German original), the Christmas market is an oasis of light and love for locals and visitors alike.

Beautiful hand made nativity scenes are on display and on sale – reminding visitors of the “reason for the season”.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a walled medieval town on Bavaria’s Romantic Road, attracts visitors from all over the world to its Christmas market. The town itself is a beauty all year round, but with a light dusting of snow and the ambiance of the market, it becomes irresistible. And even if you don’t visit during the Christmas season, you can experience it year round in the seemingly endless rooms of the Käthe Wohlfahrt store across the street from city hall. The store offers every conceivable Christmas ornament, decoration, doll, window display… you’ve never seen anything like it!

Bordered by the town hall (on the left) and councilors’ tavern (on the right), the Rothenburg Christmas Market is an annual tradition going back to medieval times when these buildings were constructed.

Deep within the store is the Rothenburg Christmas Museum – 2700 square feet of Christmas history that will have even the youngest visitor nostalgic for the “old days”. A visit to the museum evokes a lightheartedness, a feeling of warmth and goodwill, with none of the “stresses” of our modern holiday, even in July! I’ve seen many of my tour members walk out of the museum into a warm midsummer Rothenburg street humming “Silent Night” and pining for cold air and hot chocolate!

Below – American travel guru Rick Steves explores the Rothenburg Christmas Museum

Come and celebrate year-round Christmas on OneLife Tours’ Grand Tour of Europe. It includ
es a two night stay in romantic Rothenburg – join us!

From outside the town walls, Rothenburg looks like the setting of a fairy tale, whatever the season!

5 Italian dishes you must eat in Italy

November 21, 2012/in Baccalà, Baccalà alla Vicentina, cuisine, Europe, food, gnocchi, Grand Tour, Italian, knodel, napoli, pesto, pizza, Tagliatelle al Tartufo, tartufo, Tour, travel, truffles/by Craig Bresett

Italy is defined by its regions. Just as you would expect the culture and cuisine of Mississippi to be different from that of Maine, you should expect that the culture and cuisine of Tuscany is different from that of Lazio or Liguria. A smart traveller doesn’t go through Italy ordering Fettuccini Alfredo everywhere (or anywhere, for that matter – they won’t know what it is!)

Here are 5 regional dishes that you should eat in your Italian travels:

#5 – Baccalà alla Vicentina – Veneto

Bet you’ve never heard of this one! Baccalà is salted or dried cod – a food that became popular in the region of Venice when Piero Querini, a travelling merchant, shipwrecked in Norway and developed a love for this high protein, easily stored food. He brought it back to share, and it has been imported in great quantities ever since. Served with soft polenta (a savoury cornmeal porridge popular in Northern Italy), it becomes a unique dish worth seeking out.

Best eaten after a long day getting lost in the backstreets of Venice or Verona.

Though Baccalà officially means “salt cod” it is often dried cod which is served with this classic Veneto dish.

#4 – Tagliatelleal Tartufo – Tuscany

The truffle is one of the most prized foods in the world, and it is no surprise that it grows in Tuscany, one of the most popular foodie regions of Italy. Truffles are mushrooms that grow underground – they are not cultivated, but must be found using specially trained pigs or dogs. This difficulty in obtaining them, combined with their very strong flavor, make them an expensive commodity – some fetch up to $4000 per kilo! Truffles are often used to flavor butter or oil, and can also be found thinly (VERY thinly) sliced on Tagliatelleal Tartufo – egg noodles with truffle. And the price won’t break your travel budget! If it (or anything with truffle) is on the menu – try it!

Best eaten after a day of being overwhelmed by the art and architecture of Florence.


Even sliced razor thin, truffles still pack a deluge of flavour.

#3 – Knödel – Trentino-Alto Adige

I can hear you now, “Knödel? Isn’t this supposed to be a list of Italian food? That looks German to me.” The beautiful Trentino-Alto Adige region, more commonly known as the South Tyrol by local residents, is the northern-most region of Italy, bordering Austria, and it’s culture, cuisine, and language reflect a Germanic heritage. Knödel simply means dumpling. And the varieties found in this region are creative, mouthwatering masterpieces of culinary art. Try a mixed plate – one made with spinach, another with beets, another with speck (a local ham). So good!

Best eaten after a day hiking in the glorious Dolomites.

Served with a broth or without, Knödel will satisfy even the heartiest of appetites.

#2 – Pizza Napoli – Lazio

Pizza is good pretty much anywhere in Italy. But when you are in Rome in the Lazio region, you must try the Pizza Napoli. Pizza originates in Naples, south of Rome, but has spread all over the country (all over the world!). Pizza Napoli celebrates the origins of this fisherman’s lunch – thin wheat crust, fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and anchovies. Simple, but bursting with flavor due to the fresh sauce and the anchovies. Don’t like anchovies? Try the pizza Margherita – same thing but no fish.

Best eaten after spending the day rummaging through the ancient past at the Roman Forum.

Your Pizza Napoli won’t be “swimming” with anchovies – just a few are enough!

#1 – Gnocchi with pesto – Liguria

Liguria is a small region on the north coast of Italy that is often referred to as the Italian Riviera. It is also the birthplace of pesto – a heavenly mixture of basil, coarse sea salt, pine nuts, garlic, extra virgin olive oil and grated Pecorino Romano cheese. The name pesto is derived from the Italian word pestare, “to crush” – the above ingredients are tossed into a mortar and crushed together with a pestle. A platter of warm, soft gnocchi (small potato-wheat dumplings) smothered with fresh pesto (fresh as in the basil was picked that morning) is an eating experience you will never forget.

Best eaten after a hike anywhere in the Cinque Terre!

It’s not easy being green. But it is so tasty!

Interested in trying some of these dishes for yourself? Why not join the Grand Tour of Europe, which includes great regional food like this during our eight days in Italy! Or if you’re looking for more Italy than that – try our Italian Experience tour!

Something on this list that I’m missing? Let me know!